Petra, Jordan

On Saturday we finally made our much-anticipated trip to the ancient city of Petra in Jordan. Our tour started with a two hour drive through deserts, mountains and farming country. Up at the higher elevations we passed Bedouin camps where people were tending herds of sheep and goats. At the higher elevations there were also many apple orchards and green fields full of crops. Once we reached the modern city of Wadi Musa we had quite a walk down a series of stone stairs and ramps to the Visitors' Centre and then a 1 km hike down a sloping gravel pathway to the entrance of the Siq. For the less intrepid there were brightly decorated horse-drawn carriages and saddle horses which could be hired for all or part of the journey. As we arrived relatively early in the day the temperatures were pleasant and the cool breeze kept us from becoming overheated. Our guide was very knowledgeable, making stops at caves and carvings all along the route and giving us some of the background information. The Siq itself was spectacular! A deep, narrow and winding natural channel through the mountain to the Treasury of Petra. It's almost impossible to describe the beauty of the soaring red rock walls and interesting rock formations of the narrow canyon. Some sections were only 3 to 4 metres wide and in some places the high cliffs nearly blocked out the sun. Around every corner there was another spectacular view and in some sections the original paving stones still exist after more than 2000 years. After a 1.2 km stroll we caught our first glimpse of the magnificent Treasury, probably the most famous structure in Petra thanks to Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. I was nearly moved to tears at finally getting to see it in person – a real dream come true. The large open area was filled with tourists, horse-drawn carriages and people taking tourists on camel rides. By the time we reached the Treasury the sun was directly overhead and the temperature had risen considerably. Mindful of the long uphill climb back, our dwindling water supplies and the limited time available to us we were unable to explore much more of the site which actually covers 70 square km. The walk back through the searing heat was not quite as dreamlike as the cool walk down, but we persevered and we were very proud of ourselves when we arrived at the top still alive! It was a wonderful experience but we both agreed that we'd like to go back again in December or January when temperatures would be much more comfortable for people from the north and we could spend the 2 to 3 days necessary to properly explore the site. This was a real highlight in an already amazing trip.

Luxor, Egypt

It took 17 years, but I finally made it back to Egypt! We arrived at the port of Safaga just after sunrise Thursday morning and were quickly loaded onto our 12 buses for the 3.5 hour drive to Luxor. We were required to travel in a police-escorted convoy and I'm not sure if that slowed us down or sped things up! The drive was very interesting – Safaga is surrounded by barren and rocky mountains without a leaf of vegetation in sight, but the landscape was very beautiful in its own way. Gradually the scenery changed to sandy desert as far as the eye could see. Our progress was impeded by numerous security checkpoints complete with gun-toting guards in high towers. After about 2 hours we reached the lush Nile River valley. What a contrast to the desert! Now we drove past small towns surrounded by farmers' fields and date palm trees. There were donkeys everywhere, pulling carts loaded with agricultural produce, transporting men and boys or waiting patiently in the shade of the trees for their masters to put them to work. A wide canal running beside the road provided irrigation for the crops of corn, wheat, sugarcane and various fruits. All along the highway were beautiful flowering bushes in shades of pink, magenta, white and coral – not the typical vision one has of Egypt! Finally just before noon we arrived at the city of Luxor and our first stop – the Temple of Karnak. As we wandered down the Avenue of Ram-headed Spinxes and among the enormous columns, we could only stare in wonder. Words cannot describe the beauty and the intricacy of the carvings which decorate the walls and pillars of this complex. We felt as if we had taken a step back in time. Even thousands of years later, you can still see the colours used in some parts of the temple, and many of the statues are in wonderful condition after all this time. All too soon our time was up and we made our way back to the bus past numerous locals hawking souvenirs of Egypt. After doing our part for the economy we boarded the bus and headed to a local hotel where we enjoyed a buffet lunch. Then it was back onboard for the 40 minute drive to the Valley of the Kings, crossing the mighty River Nile along the way. Unfortunately cameras are strictly forbidden within the valley and had to be left on the bus to prevent sneak photos in the tombs. We boarded a small tram at the Visitors' Centre which took us deeper into the valley where the tombs are located. This is a very stark region with tomb entrances dotting the hillside in all directions. What a thrill to finally see it! We were able to enter the tombs of Ramses I, III and IX. It was exciting to walk down into the tombs and view the magnificent paintings and hieroglyphics on the walls and ceilings. The colours are wonderfully vivid and it's mind-boggling to see how well they have survived for thousands of years. Simply breathtaking. It must have been so exciting to be one of the archaeologists who excavated these sites. As our tour was drawing to an end we made photo stops at Queen Hatshepsut's Temple and the Colossi of Memnon which stand 64 feet tall and are all that remains of Amenhotep III's temple. We loved every minute of our tour, but it was HOT!!! The sun beat down mercilessly upon us, and for two people used to northern temperatures it was an exercise in survival! I don't know how many litres of water we consumed and sweated out, but it was considerable. Next time I come to Egypt I'm going to start my tours at sunrise and come in January and not in May! Still, we wouldn't have missed it for the world and can't wait to come back again.

Muscat, Oman

The morning after leaving Dubai we had a “Piracy Drill” in preparation for sailing through the waters near Somalia. When the Captain gave a special code word, we all had to head to our staterooms staying clear of windows and balconies, and await further instruction. We had to prop our door open so that our room steward could come and check and make sure we were where we were supposed to be. Ultimately passengers end up lying on the floor on one of the lower decks, but thankfully the drill didn't get that far! Pretty thrilling stuff!

On Friday we arrived at the port of Muscat, Oman. It is located in a beautiful natural setting stretched out along a series of bays and harbours with austere mountain ranges rising behind and date palm trees waving along the shore. Gone are the skyscrapers of Dubai, to be replaced by the one and two-story whitewashed square buildings in the traditional Arabic style. After a 40 minute drive past elegant government buildings, colourful mosques with domes in gold leaf or blue and green enamel, and residential districts with lovely parks and gardens, we arrived at the Grand Mosque which was built in 1992 of Indian sandstone with marble stairways and floors. It is a truly beautiful structure with long tree-lined walkways leading up to the main stairs, inner courtyards filled with leafy vegetation and palm trees and lovely arched hallways throughout the interior. Unfortunately our bad mosque luck continued! As it was Friday, the Islamic holy day, we were not allowed in but could only peer longingly into some parts through the iron gates. Our next stop was at the Muttrah Souk, a marketplace much in the style of those mum explored back in 1971 when she was in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia – narrow, covered, stone-paved alleyways lined with tiny shops selling spices, jewellery, clothing, shoes, souvenirs and handicrafts. The air was full of the sweet smell of incense and the lanes were crowded with shoppers and shopkeepers hawking their wares. We had a wonderful time exploring, examining the merchandise and exchanging remarks with the shopkeepers. It was one of the best hours we've spent so far! It's so interesting to see the locals dressed in burqas, bedouin robes, and the long tunics, loose pants and oval hats that many of the men wear. I bought a small brass Aladdin lamp and mum bought some frankincense and sandalwood incense and a small vial of rose perfume from a shopkeeper in a tiny store where he was pleased to open numerous samples of different incenses and perfumes for us to sniff. When we came out of the souk around 11:00 am the temperature had risen to a whopping 47 degrees Celsius! By the time we returned to the ship it had gone even higher, to 50 degrees – the hottest we've ever experienced! Our third stop was at the Bait Al Zubair, a private museum which chronicles Oman's history, culture and folkways. The weapons, costumes, art and household artifacts were very interesting to see. This museum is usually closed on Fridays, but they opened it especially for us. Last of all we stopped at the Al Alam Palace, the official residence of Sultan Qaboos bin Said when he is in Muscat (he has seven palaces in all). The palace was fairly unassuming as palaces go, but the huge courtyard flanked by long arched marble walkways was quite spectacular. We also got a good look at the two 16^th century Portuguese forts in the same area. All too soon we had to return to the ship. Everything in Muscat closes at noon and reopens at 4:00 pm because of the tremendous heat in the middle of the day, otherwise we certainly would have returned to the souk for more shopping and exploring! Our drive back to the pier took us past the giant white replica of an incense burner perched on a rocky hill near the shore. It really stands out when you're sailing into or away from Muscat, and I think I've probably got about 40 pictures of it from various angles!

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

A few days ago our port lecturer gave a talk on “50 Places to See Before You Die”. (Side note, mum and I have each been to 18 of them, not all the same ones, and we'll be going to 5 or 6 more before our trip is over). Dubai was one of the places listed, and after having been there I cannot fathom what it is doing on this list! We had a pleasant enough tour, but I honestly don't see any reason to ever return to Dubai. As we sailed into port we had a pretty good view over the downtown, including the world's tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, which mum thinks looks like a bunch of tin cans stacked on top of each other! The cruise terminal is brand new, having opened only a few weeks ago, and had several little souvenir shops, a post office, an ATM and a couple of tour desks. We boarded our bus and met our guide Vijay Singh – not the golfer, he was quick to tell us! We drove through the city and stopped at the beach next to the Burj Al Arab Hotel which is built in the shape of a sail and is very beautiful. It even has its own helicopter pad. Vijay told us that all of the rooms in the hotel are suites, and every suite has an ocean view and comes with its own butler! In the distance we could see one of the man-made Palm Islands, home of the Atlantis Hotel. The beach was gorgeous with its white sand beaches and turquoise waters, and I was almost ready to just stay there for the day! We pressed on however, and our next stop was at the Jumeira Mosque. Unfortunately we were not allowed inside – we have seen so many mosques on this trip and not once have we made it to the interior! It's the only mosque in Dubai that has an outreach program for non-Muslims. On certain days of the week you can join a group for an hour-long tour to learn more about the Islamic religion. Too bad we weren't there at the appropriate time, but we did enjoy strolling the gardens and sitting in the shade of the outer courtyard. Next we made our way to the Dubai Museum which is located in the 210-year old Al Fahidi Fort, practically the only old structure still left in Dubai. It had some excellent exhibits depicting the traditional lifestyle of the Bedouin people, but it was very crowded and dark so it was difficult to see everything properly. We made the short drive to the waterfront where we boarded a water taxi to cross the creek to Deira where we stopped at first the spice souk and then the gold souk. Store after store was jammed full of gold rings, bracelets and necklaces. Far too rich for my blood, but it was very interesting watching the passing scene. It was definitely a very popular place! Finally we walked back to the bus and made the drive to the pier. The tour was fine, but Dubai left mum and I feeling cold (and not the good kind!). The guide's commentary was all about pointing out the newest this, the biggest that, the third largest mosque in the Middle East, the second tallest flagpole in the world, etc. The whole reason for Dubai seems to be just about oneupmanship. Everything has to be the biggest, which they seem to feel translates into the best, and I disagree. Luxury hotels and office towers were under construction everywhere we looked, but the sheer excess turned me off. We could have been in practically any modern city in the world, and what's so special about that?

Mumbai (Bombay), India

I have never been interested in traveling to India. There, I said it, and at the time I said it I absolutely meant it. Mumbai is such a fascinating city though, and I've been forced to change my opinion! After passing through a million security checks to reach the cruise terminal, we boarded our bus for our tour to Elephanta Island. Along the way to the pier we passed many lovely colonial buildings whose beautiful architecture was only slightly diminished by the sooty coatings caused by the city's terrible air pollution. Out on the pier itself there is an ornate stone gate (The Gateway of India), built for the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in December 1911. To get there we walked across a wide, stone-paved square full of tourists, commuters, men selling postcards, and pitiful looking women carrying babies and begging for money. Our guide told us to ignore them because they were not begging for themselves but were working for criminals who would take most of the money away from them. She said that the babies probably weren't even their own but had been rented for the day from very poor families as props to win our sympathy. Our hour long boat ride out to Elephanta Island was most pleasant as the breeze off the water had a welcome cooling effect. Once we reached the Island we boarded a small brightly painted train for the 1 km journey to the base of the stairs leading up to the caves. We had been told we would have to climb up 120 stairs to reach the Elephanta Caves, but we really weren't prepared for the reality of the situation, having envisaged a set of evenly spaced stairs like those outside a church or a Chinese temple for example. In actual fact we climbed up the side of the mountain a few stone steps at a time with long, steep areas of stone-paved ramp in between each set of steps – so it was quite a climb and quite a distance to the top. All along both sides of the ramp the locals had set up colourful stalls from which they sold a wide range of handicrafts – stone and wooden carvings, lanterns, purses and embroidered bags, pictures, cloths, scarves, decorated mirrors, doorbells, clothing, etc. Of course they called out to us constantly trying to get us to buy, but our guide had told us to wait until the return journey, so we soldiered on through the extreme heat and humidity. The caves themselves were quite impressive, developed in the style of a temple with huge stone pillars at the entrance and throughout the interior and stone carvings of the Hindu God Shiva on the walls. The huge carvings were lovely but alas badly damaged as they had been used for target practice by the Portuguese in earlier times. We were counting on cooler temperatures inside the caves but it was not meant to be. It must have been at least 40 degrees up there! After our tour of the caves we were given an hour and a half to explore on our own and make our way down through the stalls. Mum bought three embroidered purses because every time she bought one she'd see one at another stall that she liked better! On our trek we certainly enjoyed the variety of animal life – colourful roosters, placid black cows, scrawny-looking mangy yellow dogs, a black and white goat sleeping on a bench, and monkeys in all shapes and sizes leaping around everywhere. I love monkeys, so it was a real treat! All in all we had an exhausting but interesting day in Mumbai. We both agree that we'd like to come back and explore more of the city at a future date.

Male, Maldives

Wednesday we arrived Male, Maldives and now you will get the lamest blog entry yet! We were supposed to go on a two hour walking tour of Male, but we decided not to go. Here are our excuses: We were both still feeling really sick from this darn cold. It was already +30 at 7:00 in the morning. We had watched the port talk, and there really didn't seem to be much of interest in Male unless you were going to be snorkeling, which was not offered as a tour option. And finally, you had to take the tender to get to shore, and it just seemed like an extra level of hassle for a tour we didn't want to go on anyway. Firmly in agreement, we decided to stay on board and do our laundry, which turned out to be a great choice! We had the laundry room almost to ourselves (trust me, this was a big deal!) and had three loads done in two hours – a record during our time on the ship. Once our buddies who did go on the walking tour returned to the ship they told us that we had made the right decision – they were basically herded from place to place with no information given to them by the guide, and it was so unbearably hot that everyone was completely miserable. We had a very good view of this extremely small island capital from our stateroom, and the water was just as beautiful from our vantage point as it would have been had we gone ashore. Sometimes you just need a day off, even in paradise!

Phuket, Thailand

Our day trip in Phuket was much like the tour we took in Vietnam. Basically, if you put the words “scenic cruise” into the tour description, we're there! We had an early start of it and were hustled past the vendors setting up shop on the pier for the 90 minute drive to Phang Nga. After a brief pit stop at the Phang Nga Bay Resort we boarded our open air boat for our cruise. The scenery was similar to that of Halong Bay – steep, forested mountains and islets, including one shaped like a poodle. Our destination: James Bond Island, famous for appearing in the movie The Man With the Golden Gun as the hideaway of Christopher Lee's character. Mum and I re-watched the movie the night before in anticipation, and it was such a thrill to actually go there! I remember being in awe of the scenery when I first saw the movie as a child, and it was even more breathtaking in person than it was on film. As we approached the island we passed rock formations with narrow openings into caves and there were many people in kayaks paddling along and having to lie down to enter the grottos hidden beneath the rocks. It looked like a lot of fun – maybe next time! We were fortunate to be able to pass through one of the larger caves, thus making up for my missed opportunity at the Hole in the Rock in New Zealand. A stop on James Bond Island wasn't part of our itinerary, but that's probably for the best – I wager that shopping at one of the tourist traps that are now a part of the island would have ruined some of the mystique! After we'd drifted around so that everyone had a chance to take pictures from multiple angles, we headed back to the floating village of Panyi. Its inhabitants are the descendents of the sea gypsies who used to be pirates in these waters. Now they depend mainly on tourism for their livelihood. We landed beside a wobbly pontoon dock and made our way through one of the pleasant, clean looking restaurants and into the market area. After a stop outside the local school we were set loose to explore and shop. Half an hour later we headed back to the pier where we lunched at the Phang Nga Bay Resort. We enjoyed a buffet of various Thai delicacies – fried vegetables, basmati rice, green curry fish balls, crab sausage, sweet and sour pork with cashews, and barbecued beef, plus exotic fruits for dessert. On the way back to the ship we had to make the obligatory stop at a high-end jewellery/souvenir shop so that “richy-riches” could be talked into buying another bauble for the “little woman”. Mum and I admired but did not buy – not our style. We prefer the street markets, so upon our return to the pier we explored the many stalls that had been set up near the ship and happily parted with some of our cash!