Brunei

Monday we arrived at the port of Muara, Brunei. I was still feeling like death warmed over and had begun to infect mum and the thought of going on an 8 hour tour was not very appealing – I almost cancelled and stayed on board, but decided that I'm not likely to get to Brunei again, and I couldn't bear to miss it. It turned out to be one of our best tours so far! We made the short drive to Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital city of Brunei and began our tour at the wet market, an open-air market beside a canal selling a wide variety of fresh fish, dried fish products, spices, fruits and vegetables. Our guide Stanley (named after his father's favourite toolbox!) enthusiastically described every spice and food item in great detail, including how to use each item in your day to day cooking. Needless to say, we were at the market for a very long time, inhaling the pungent smells which were a little hard to take that early in the morning. I confess I have had my fill of fish markets! There were a lot of cats roaming around the market area – Stanley told us that cats are highly regarded in Brunei and are far more popular than dogs. I was just happy to see some kitties because I miss mine very much! When Stanley was satisfied that we knew all there was to know about the market we re-boarded our bus and headed off to the Royal Regalia Museum which houses artifacts and paraphernalia of the Sultan of Brunei and his family – the Royal Chariot, solid gold crowns, royal sceptres, ceremonial weapons, diamond encrusted formal wear woven with gold threads, numerous photos of the royal family engaged in various activities and gifts presented from dignitaries around the world including a soapstone carving of a walrus given by Prime Minister Jean Chretien. We had to remove our shoes before entering the museum and were given lockers in which to store our cameras and personal effects. Attendants watched our every move – I guess a picture made it onto the internet a few years ago showing items that they do not wish to be photographed, and so security is a little tight. Stanley had a lot to say during our tour and by the time we got outside to put our shoes back on they were as hot as ovens! In retrospect we should have found some shade to put them in! Our next stop was at Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque which was completed in 1992 to celebrate the Sultan's 25^th Jubilee. It is a lovely, intricately decorated building topped with gold domes and surrounded by lush gardens and beautiful fountains. Unfortunately we were unable to go inside because they were just about to begin their noon prayers. We returned later in the day to try again but were told it was closed. After lunch at a local hotel we made our way to the river and boarded a ten person boat for a trip to the mangrove forest in search of proboscis monkeys. We took a wild ride down the river with our boatman twisting and turning, leaping over the wake left by other boats and dodging in and out around obstacles. The wind out on the water felt wonderful and we didn't mind being hit by the spray! Our monkey spotter did a marvellous job and we saw at least a dozen monkeys in several locations. It was very exciting to see them swinging from tree to tree in the wild instead of locked up behind bars in some city zoo. Needless to say I now have about 50 pictures of vegetation where I just know there is a monkey hiding, if only I could spot it! That'll be a project for another day! On our way back we stopped at Kampong Ayer, a village built on stilts over the water. The houses are joined by wooden walkways which are also connected to shops, markets, mosques and schools. A utilidor system of blue pipes brings water to the buildings in the village. We stopped at a large pink house where the family had laid out tea and coffee and an assortment of goodies for us to enjoy on their spacious front porch. Mum sampled a fried banana with cheese, which is considered a local delicacy. Once we rejoined our bus there was just enough time for a cruise past the Sultan's Palace where the Sultan's nephew almost caused an accident by cutting us off in his burgundy BMW – quite exciting! We then made the drive back to the pier and re-boarded our ship. I'm glad I didn't let this stupid cold prevent me from enjoying the wonders of Brunei!